Karmen Koren - a girl who wants to save clothes
Disposability is no longer chic and Soča Valley is in trend. We open the door into Reinkarmika - a unique concept store with an even more unique owner.
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Nostalgic landline on the windowsill. There is a cash register in the right corner and to the left stands a table with sewing machines. A great grandma’s closet, father's radio and that good old grandfather’s bench. Carpets, an altar, wooden ladders and a maze of pipes on which hang countless garments. Somewhere on the wall between the clothes, one can read the sign saying “positive vibes only”. It smells like the 80s, sounds like the 70s. Once you step into this place, you can feel the past and see the future. I did not get stuck in a time machine. In fact, I am in Kobarid, having coffee with Karmen Koren - a designer who sews new life into old things.
Reinkarmika is a sustainable clothing brand. In her quirky shop Karmen offers carefully selected used, vintage clothes, upcycled pieces and unique products. She also makes completely new designs, using quality Slovenian and European fabric. For her clothes are more than just fashion. At the heart of Karmen’s clothes collecting impulse is the bond between a piece of clothing and the story. When she looks at clothes, feels the fabric, she sees a narrative about a particular time, character, person. Karmen has been a passionate clothing collector since she was 15. Like some kind of fashion archaeologist, she searches for forgotten treasures and tries to dig to their origin. In her quirky collection, one can find almost everything from old Yugoslav brands, precious discoveries from Italian flea markets, to donated clothes that laid in people’s attics for many years.
Every time a person throws away a piece of clothing, Karmen’s heart aches just a bit. That is why she encourages people to bring her everything they don’t need. Despite the large number of clothes she gets, she manages to find a new place and a new meaning for every used garment. But how did it all start? Behind every new story, there is an old one.
From New York fashion catwalks to the former Kobarid convenience store
"I still don't get it," smiled Karmen when asked if she had ever imagined that she would own a second-hand shop. Opening a store was never a goal but rather a consequence of staying true to herself and following her gut feelings. Karmen fell in love with clothes early on, so she decided to study at the College of Design in Ljubljana.
During her studies, a whole new world of fashion creativity was waiting for her. She participated in the main Slovenian fashion event, Ljubljana Fashion Week, and she worked as a costume designer behind the scenes of numerous advertisements, films and series. In 2014, she presented her Eclectic mind collection at New York Fashion Week. “It was something completely different! An interesting experience, but still, I was not tempted to stay in this world. I knew I wanted to return to Slovenia, to Kobarid. I knew I wanted to create something of my own one day,” said Karmen. One day, in the middle of filming in Goriška brda, she felt it was the right time for a new step. After ten years of living and working in Ljubljana, Karmen returned to her home village Drežnica without a solid plan and only 400 euros in her pocket.
Fighting for her cloths
The girl is back in town! Despite the winding roads, the news travels fast in the Soča valley. “As soon as I came back, people started calling me: Karmen, can you combine something for a choir? Can you repair my pants? Do you have a T-shirt for me?” explained Karmen.
But it was her father’s ultimate that turned her world around. Karmen had her clothes all over the house. In boxes, bags, in the attic, in the garage, in the room, everywhere. “All my life, I believed that this was normal. It’s just something women do. Well, it turns out that is not the case,” she laughed. When she returned, her father gave her a choice: either she sorts out the situation or he would load the clothes on a tractor and take them away. Reaction? Reinkarmika - upcycling, vintage shop.
Karmen rented an old business premise in Kobarid, the same place she used to buy sweets when she was a child. Space was in disrepair — broken tiles, old shelves, dust everywhere etc. "Waw!" for Karmen this was a challenge and in her head, she already painted an image of the shop. She rolled up her sleeves and set to work. Cleaning, painting, tiling, glueing – repeat. The idea slowly got its form and the old convenience store reincarnated into a second-hand clothing store.
The idea of a second-hand shop in Kobarid was accompanied by a combination of strange looks, wise tips and advice, curiosity and concern. But Karmen followed her intuition. While most people get stuck on thoughts like: “Uh, I have to calculate. Is it worth it? Will it even pay off?” Karmen opened a store with her modest savings. She didn't buy a single thing there. The room is furnished with old ladders, old chairs, and for work, Karmen uses her mother's old sewing machine. "At that moment, all that mattered to me was that I would be here. I will sew, design, create, even if no one comes in." But people came. In the summer months, when the Soča valley is full of tourists, the visit is amazing.
More than a store
Reinkarmika is not just an ordinary “good afternoon, choose, buy, goodbye” clothing store. Karmen does not see visitors as customers and is still impressed with just about anyone who crosses the threshold. Her sincerity, openness, accessibility and sense of aesthetics turn the purchase of new old clothes into a memorable experience.
"If a dress doesn't suit someone, I'm honest and I say it out," explains Karmen, who is happy to advise visitors. She likes to encourage people to step out of the ordinary box and try new styles. “It starts with the usual ‘it is not for me’ reply. When they try it anyway, they are surprised at how good they look,” she laughs.
Reinkarmika is a place where different social worlds mix and interact. Old ladies come here to repair their skirts, and the locals bring bags of used clothes. There are more and more young families who come to the store and get fully dressed. The store is a gold mine for vintage style fans and an engaging cultural experience for foreigners, enthusiastic about the crazy shop in the middle of Kobarid, away from urban centres. “I love it when I spot locals wearing some beautiful old clothes. That means they have browsed their attics and found good clothes! That means I am setting the right trends. I believe we have to focus on what we already own, rather than what we might,” explained Karmen, who believes this is the definition of sustainability. Use what you have.
Positive vibes only
In Reinkarmika, time stops and a conversation begins. It is a place where people hang out, exchange ideas and stories. People like to stop at Karmen’s, even just for a chat.
“Why am I in the world? I love clothes, astrology, and all that. Many people come here asking how to start things, how to get motivated and how to follow your path. That is why I think my purpose is to encourage people and inspire them to be courageous and realise their ideas. I am the proof that you can open a second hand in the middle of Kobarid and make it work,” she says.
Reinkarmika is celebrating its fourth year of operation this year and is fully active on social media. Now that the days are getting longer and the evenings are pleasantly warm, Karmen puts chairs in front of the shop in the old Kobarid house and opens its doors wide. You can find her on Trg svobode 12a street.
You can meet Karmen behind one of the stands at the Bovec flea market. We will be there! Join us on Thursday the 20th in Čezsoča. Read more about the event here: https://www.facebook.com/events/177336337599518
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