On top of Svinjak; searching for pigs in the pigsty
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Standing guard above Bovec is a picturesque green pyramid, a mountain called Svinjak. Its spiky form really ties the Bovec valley together and brings a wild edge to this tiny mountain town. The mountain offers numerous photo opportunities for tourists visiting Bovec. Especially during the summer season, you can see heaps of people taking snaps of it from various angles of their bar table. However, if you are anything like myself and want to take that step further, escape the crowded points in the valley, then lace up your hiking boots and hike up where the air is even fresher, and the views are amazing.
What connects pigs and this mountain?
I always wonder what the story behind the name Svinjak is. The literal translation of the word into English is “pigsty”- you know that muddy place where pigs happily enjoy their pig activities. But local wisdom says you should never take things literally, and one of the official explanations is that the name is derived from the word “svit,” which means “dawn.” Sunrise exposes the peak of Svinjak first and then continues down, waking up the valley. But then again, why was it not simply named Svitnjak? I still believe there is some juicy mud and a pig left out of this story. Adding to its identity crises, the mountain also has a nickname. Some locals dramatically call Svinjak the Matterhorn of Bovec, mainly because of its pyramidal peak resemblance, since it is way lower than its Swiss brother.
The trail
The hike up to Svinjak (1,653) is not a long one. It will take you around five hours round trip, with all sandwich breaks included. The trailhead starts in the village of Kal-Koritnica, the first village on a quick drive from Bovec towards Trenta. Follow the well-marked and fairly gradual trail through the beech forest on the lower slopes of the mountain. Despite the good old “oh, that is the boring part,” it can offer many hidden beauties and exciting sights. A curious squirrel is looking at you in horror behind a tree trunk; there are goats trying to lick you alive and an artistic loner tree on the clearing. Following the forest, the hike becomes quite steep, and it is good daily training for your summer body goals. Once you get out of the tree shelter, you will end up walking on the stony ridge with excellent views wherever you turn. However, don’t forget to be mindful of your step; the trail offers a little bit of rock climbing as well.
Once on top, you might be surprised. I cannot forget my childhood disappointment when I first climbed Svinjak with my family. Observing Svinjak from Bovec, its pointy summit, I imagined my child-self on the top balancing on one leg only. But when you reach the top, you find that Svinjak is a part of the mountain ridge that stretches all the way to Bavški Grintavec. You are standing on the right summit when you see a small summit register shaped like a statue of a tower. Nevertheless, the top offers a panoramic view of the Bovec valley with its outstanding mountain peaks, turquoise colors of the Soča and Koritnica rivers. Take a few moments to appreciate the majestic forces of Mother nature who dug these two valleys.
A history detour
When turning back, taking the same route, it is also worth making a little cultural detour to visit the Čelo fortress, where you can see the relatively well-preserved remains of the military positions from the First World War slaughter. There you can spot the gun fortification which was built by the Austro-Hungarian Army in 1915 and was part of the Bovec blockade system against Italians. It is not hard to understand why they chose this strategic place. It offers an excellent view of the Bovec basin, Mt. Rombon, and the surrounding mountains. This outdoor museum is just one of many on the Walk of peace that is left to remind us of a dynamic history that shaped the people and culture in the Soča valley. But the pig part remains a mystery.
